I first met Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen back in 2015, when I had a chance to taste through his wines at his garage winery in Woodinville, near Seattle. I was immediately impressed, as my write-up here shows. For him, winemaking is still a side-gig, and he remains wine director at RN74, but working in a top restaurant like this gives him a perspective that’s extremely valuable. He’s now making more wine and has moved to bigger premises, and it probably won’t be too long before he’s a full-time vigneron. I tasted these wines with him at TexSom in Dallas earlier this week.
WT Vintners Underwood Mountain Vineyards Grüner Veltliner 2016 Columbia Gorge, Washington State, USA
This is lightly crushed and spends 36 hours on skins before pressing and fermenting (wild yeasts). It’s taut and crisp with some nice white pepper hints. Bright with good acid and nice texture. Very focused. 90/100
WT Vintners Upland Vineyard Chenin Blanc 2017 Snipes Mountain, Washington State, USA
From 1979 plantings, this is 30% fermented and aged in old barrels, 70% in stainless steel. Bright citrus fruit dominates with some pear richness and a hint of spice. Nicely textured with real brightness. 91/100
WT Vintners Syrah Les Collines Vineyard 2014 Walla Walla, Washington State, USA
Textured with sleek black fruits and a hint of mint, as well as some pepper notes. Lovely fruit presence here with some grip but also some lovely sweet fruit. 92/100
WT Vintners Syrah Stoney Vine 2015 Walla Walla, Washington State, USA
Jeff says that he was surprised by the high alcohols in this vintage, but this is a lovely wine despite this. Lively and vivid but with some richness. Bright peppery notes alongside sleek black cherry fruit. Expressive with real presence. 92/100
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